14 Oct 2023

From water to wine: The story of Dancing Petrel

From Country Life, 5:13 pm on 14 October 2023
Kim Gilkison of Dancing Petrel wines in the vines on Paewhenua Island.

Kim Gilkison of Dancing Petrel wines in the vines on Paewhenua Island. Photo: Supplied

Kim Gilkison and her husband, Graham, have turned a once-languishing vineyard into an award-winning estate in just five years. 

Around a decade ago the couple bought an old cottage at the base of Paewhenua Island in the Far North. The views from where it sits on the water's edge of Mangonui Harbour stretch out to Doubtless Bay. 

The couple sold their engineering business in Taranaki and started renovating before realising in 2016 they'd completely moved in. 

Two years later, they brought the surrounding vineyard which covers most of the island - connected by an umbilical cord directly onto State Highway 10.

The resulting name of the wine, Dancing Petrel, is inspired by the bird that dances on the water, Kim states.

And yet while the bird maybe the mascot, water is a consistent theme onsite.

Dancing Petrel wines sit atop on old post office bench in the tasting room.

Dancing Petrel wines sit atop on old post office bench in the tasting room. Photo: RNZ/Leah Tebbutt

Visitors to the vineyard can experience its charm in the small tasting room just offset from the cottage. Here water laps at the land's edge mere metres from the outside table where Kim says many visitors have turned into friends and tastings into an afternoon in the sun. 

Kim explains the changes they made to the vineyard: 

"It was planted in 2006 with some really interesting grape varieties. We've relocated quite a few of the vines so they're more compact, we've made better use of the land, and we've put in some new varieties as well." 

The vineyard now boasts Cabernet Franc, Tannat, and Syrah for the reds, while the whites include Viognier, Arneis and Pinot Gris. They've also introduced Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Chambourcin, a promising red grape that thrives in the Northland climate.

Kim says when they first took over the vineyard, it needed significant remedial work. The vines were overgrown, and the production was a fraction of its potential. 

Dancing Petrel vines overlook the Magnonui Harbour.

Dancing Petrel vines overlook the Magnonui Harbour. Photo: RNZ/Leah Tebbutt

That meant the first three years were spent heavily pruning and reorganising the plants while also planting 6500 new vines.

In recent years, the vineyard has received numerous accolades and awards, including recognition for their Cabernet Franc wines, which are now highly sought after.

One of the significant challenges in revitalising the vineyard was the learning curve, as Kim admits.

"The biggest challenge was just learning what you needed to do in the vineyard itself. We've been so lucky with the support we've had from people in the industry." 

The couple joined the New Zealand Sustainable Wine program early on, which helped them establish the right processes to ensure a sustainable future for their vineyard.

The view from the Dancing Petrel tasting room.

The view from the Dancing Petrel tasting room. Photo: RNZ/Leah Tebbutt

Their sustainability tick covers growing methods, spray-use, soil and leaf analysis, and health and safety. Becoming accredited helped them apply rigour to management of the vineyard and has boosted their confidence in the end product.

There's a strong focus on soil health, including soil testing to guide fertiliser application, and digging mulched clippings back into the soil.

Recycling is a priority, and biodiversity is enhanced by caring for a wetland and planting native species.